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Old World Tuscany and
New Found Traverse City
Rick's Picks - August
2010
by Rick
VanSickle
This issue of Rick's Pick's has been split up between the Old World destination of Tuscany, Italy and the Traverse City wine region in northern Michigan. Enjoy!
Tuscany has been called the Centre of the Italian Wine Universe. And it certainly is all that and much, much more. Some of the world's most glorious and famous wines come from the picturesque Toscana vineyards. Who hasn't enjoyed a wonderful Chianti Classico or a blockbuster Brunello di Montalcino? In fact, I would wager that most every wine lover on the planet has had a glass or two from Tuscany even if they weren't aware it was from this large Italian region.
Tuscany is all about romance and tradition with strict rules that govern the make up of most of these wines from a myriad grape varieties and styles. The wines of Tuscany are broken into three major classifications — DOC (Designation of Controlled Origin), DOCG (the G standing for Guaranteed, and a level up from DOC), and IGT (the designation Tuscany gives to the new wave of so-called "Super Tuscan" wines that are made in the modern style without following the strict rules laid out by the other two designations). There are highly sought after collector wines that fetch a lot of money upon release and at auction.
The Super Tuscan category of wines was borne out of a need to escape the mandated varietal make up of Tuscan wines. For example, Chianti Classico at one time could not contain 100% sangiovese, so some renegade (some would say visionary) Italian winemakers decided to label their vino as simple table wines and use whatever they wanted in the blend — even 100% sangiovese. Super Tuscan wines often introduce non-traditional grapes into their blends, such as cabernet sauvignon, which leaves them outside the DOC regulations.
Today, Super Tuscans have been widely accepted into the Tuscan family under the IGT classification and there has been a rapid increase in the number of these wines hitting store shelves. Here are a few of the most popular Super Tuscans that make it to our shores (as previously noted, some of the prices might shock you):
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Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia
(Vintages $212)
This blockbuster of a wine is generally a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc and is part of the Super Tuscan "royalty" class. Ornellaia delivers power and hedonistic pleasure with dark fruits, minerals, spice and plenty of ripe tannins. Always balanced, poised and ready to drink with several hours decanting or left in the cellar for 15 years or more.
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Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
(Vintages $185)
This is the Super Tuscan that started it all, the first producer to go it alone with an all-star table wine that was a blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon and a bit of cabernet franc. It is a massive red with defined and integrated fruits, spice, roasted herbs and youthful tannins to go with earth, violets, smoke and leather. You could sit and drink this wine for a day and never run out of descriptors.
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Marchese Antinori Tignanello
(Vintages $100)
Antinori was the first to follow in Sassicaia's footsteps back in 1971 with his version of a Super Tuscan — a mainly sangiovese blend with a little cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc added to it. Piero Antinori once told me in an interview that the secret to his wine is in the vineyard (low yields and less dense plantings) and in the winery (aging the wine in small French oak barrels). Tignanello is only made in the very best vintages and when that happens, the wine shows ripe dark fruits with touches of spice and vanilla/cedar/oak notes. The palate oozes blackberries, currants with a backbone of oak and tannins. Superb.
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Marchese Antinori Solaia
(Vintages $255)
This is a blend that's pretty much the opposite of Antinori's other Super Tuscan Tignanello — mostly cabernet sauvignon and the rest sangiovese. This wine has found a big following, surpassing, some say, the Tig. It's a full-bodied and robust red with currants, spice, oak and mouth-numbing tannins that need time to dissolve. A wine built for the cellar and not to be approached in its youth.
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Iosle e Olena Cepparello
(Vintages $75)
This is one of my favourite Super Tuscans and not just because it's one of the most affordable. It consistently delivers immense pleasure vintage after vintage. It's 100% sangiovese, a pure expression of that grape always with a superb nose of earthy, gamy dark fruits and a touch of plum. It's a powerful wine but shows amazing balance even in its youth and lasts incredibly long in the cellar.
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Luce Della Vite Luce
(Vintages $100)
This was originally a collaboration between two powerful winemaking families — Tuscany's Marchesi de' Frescobaldi and Napa Valley's Robert Mondavi — and quickly became a favourite for wine collectors. It is solely the responsibility of the Frescobaldi's now and is a unique blend of merlot and sangiovese. It offers up spiced plums, violets, minty black currants and rich spices on the nose. It adds coffee bean, red fruits, cassis, fine-grained tannins and a finish that goes on and on. |
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La Vite Lucente
(Vintages $40)
This is the second wine of Luce and is a blend of merlot, sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon that's matured for 12 months in French barriques. It's modern in style and easy to like at a price that's affordable. It shows wild red fruits, currants and spice on the nose, adding touches of tobacco and earth on the palate. Approachable in its youth. |
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Chateau Chantal, Michigan
As you know it was Claudio that visited the award winning Chateau Chantal winery on northern Michigan's old Mission Peninsula, here are a few picks from the traveling Golfer himself. Perhaps not a refined wino as myself but a wino none the less!
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Proprietor's Reserve Chardonnay 2007/08
'09 Taster's Guild Int'l, Gold Medal - This barrel fermented Chardonnay has soft tannins and vanilla which frames the creamy oakiness of the wine. This well balanced fruity wine was perfect with a meal of chicken alfredo and side garden salad. |
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Naughty Red
'09 Taster's Guild Int'l Bronze Medal - No harsh or bitter taste with this dry red wine and it's versatile enough to accompany fish. This is one wine that doesn't adhere to the rules – very naughty indeed! |
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Nice Red
'09 Taster's Guild Int'l Silver Medal - Made from a blend of the finest red grapes this red is a fruity semi-sweet wine. Best served chilled with food from the grill or a real Italian pizza.
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Select Harvest
Gewurztraminer 2008
'09 Indy Int'l Bronze Medal - This dessert wine has a sweet, rich, full-bodied taste with a wonderful balance of fruit and spices. Excellent with an after dinner dessert of warm brie cheese and fruit.
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