Rick's Picks - September 2008

There is nothing in this world quite like the white wines of Alsace. They are powerful, exotic, diverse and unique in a world dominated by oaky Chardonnay.

Alsace is a wine region located in the north east of France. It is bordered by the Vosges on the west and the Rhine on the east, which separates it from Germany.

It is a region famous for its crisp white wines — namely Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Tokay Pinot Gris and Sylvaner.

The wines are all intensely aromatic, acidic and made with virtually no oak. They can be long-lived due to the high acidity. And unlike most other regions of France, the varietal is clearly marked on each label. You can always tell a bottle is from Alsace by the tall, slender shape.
I recently sipped my way through several great Alsace wines that a beginner to the region would find wildly fascinating.

Here are three widely available Alsace white wines (followed by three reds from elsewhere) that I hope you will find as interesting and delicious as I did. All prices are approximate and vary from province to province.

The whites:

Dopff & Irion Crystal d'Alsace Sylvaner 2006 ($14)

ADopff & Irion Crystal d'Alsace Sylvaner 2006 ($14) — Sylvaner is usually crisp and clean like this one with melon, apple and pear aromas. On the palate there are nice notes of fresh apple and lemon-lime. It's all about the fruit in this wine.

Pierre Sparr Riesling 2006 ($15)

One of the most reliable names in Alsace and, I must say, I'm so pleased to see his wines now in screwcap (the world is changing, folks!). I love the subtle hint of minerality that shows on the nose to go with citrus, peach, and even a touch of ginger spice. In the mouth, lovely peach, pear, apple-stone flavours in a completely dry style.

Leon Beyer Pinot Gris 2006 ($16)

This is a brilliant wine and typical of the Pinot Gris styled in Alsace. Smoky, creamy fruit on the nose with layers of pear and marzipan. It's a wonderous, unctuous, big white with delicious earthy, creamy, powerful fruit flavours and delicious minerality. This is quintessential Alsace that lasts and lasts on the finish.


The Reds (all under $15):

Nederburg Wine Master's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

From South Africa, Nederburg is a big producer of quality wines up and down the brand. The Cabernet has defined blackberry and mocha aromas with just a touch of cedar. Bright fruit on the palate with toasted oak spice and vanilla.

Nederburg Wine Master's
Reserve Shiraz 2006

A nose of plums, mint, currants and spice. It's a pleasant Shiraz with earthy berry fruit and mint spices.

Cookoothama Shiraz 2006

Pronounced cook-a-tharma, fans of this popular Aussie brand will notice a new stylized look in the packaging. In the bottle, however, it's the same value-for-your-money wine that's it's always been. Raspberry-cherry aromas with a splash of sweet spices. Vibrant red fruits in the mouth with added red plum, a dash of kirsch and an array of herbs and spice.

 
 
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