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What
Canadian golfers have not measured
up to now is the wealth of courses
to play, and how unique they are
in the golf world. For those who
believe a golf vacation should include
other sidelights, like visits to
world-famous historical sites, or
plush living at five-star hotels
that sit on pristine beaches beside
a wine-dark sea, then Tunisia is
a real eye-opener and a must-visit.
The
question is, of course, how difficult
is it to get there? The answer:
difficult but well worth
it.
About
18,000 Canadians visit Tunisia each
year, mostly French Canadians. That's
due to two factors: French is the
second language in this former French
colony; and flights from Montreal
to Tunis are routed through Paris,
via Air France. There's no doubt,
the long transcontinental route
is tiresome.
But
Tunisia is well worth the extra
hours in the air. Sultana
Tours has both golf and
historical tour packages that are
more than reasonable especially
in the off-season. Who wouldn't
want to visit the immortal Roman
Coliseum at El Jem (second largest
in the world), or the great mosque
at Kairouan (fourth most important
Islamic religious site in the world),
or the Bardo?
Mix
that with a stay at the luxurious
L'Hotel
Tamerza Palace (my favourite)
in the Atlas Mountains near the
sandy Sahara, and you're only a
short hop away from the Tozeur
Golf Club, one of the
most unique in the world.
Sitting
in a giant oasis of the same name,
the club features fairways cutting
through giant sandstone boulders,
and the fabulous 18th. It's a nervy
Par 5 with a canyon to the left
and desert to the right. Picking
your way to the green is one of
golf's fun challenges, and if there's
a raw, natural, ethos about the
course, there's also a sublime beauty
that makes you think of other desert
destinations, like the southwest
United States.
The
day we played Tozeur, the greens
were heavily top-dressed and extremely
springy, which reminds everyone,
that it's always important to check
ahead when playing courses in out-of-the-way
places. I can only imagine Tozeur
with smooth, quick, hard greens.
Playing
Tozeur was the perfect aperitif
for the rest of our tour of Tunisian
golf courses. From the sun-bleached
south we quickly made our way north
and east to the heart of golf country,
and the El
Kantaoui Golf Course
and its two 18-hole beauties: the
Panorama and Sea courses. Both are,
as their names imply, pretty venues
with lovely vistas, and fairways
lined with olive trees.
North
Americans would feel comfortable
in the parkland setting, with occasional
views of the sea. The conditions
were much more like what you'd expect
back home fast, tilted greens,
and generous fairways.
Moving
on the Hammamet with its amazing
old downtown (medina) and its views
of the Mediterranean, I was eager
to try out Yasmine
Golf Course, a par 72
that also sports sublime views of
the sea.
Golf
Citrus is the real gem
in Hammamet, a 45-hole golf resort
second to none in Africa. Designed
by American Ronald Fream, Le Foret
is an undulating course surrounded
by pine trees and played into fast
greens set on plateaus. The stunning
Les Oliviers features large fairways
built in an olive grove area and
sand raps within reach of your driver.
This is a challenging test, and
both courses stretch well beyond
6,000 meters (for men).
In
Monastir there's the Palm
Links and Flamingo Golf Clubs,
and both rise and fall over beautiful
Tunisian countryside. Palm Links
is inspired by the Scottish model
(dunes covered by wild plants) while
Flamingo (designed by Fream) sits
on a plateau. The opening tee shot
is memorable a long carry
down into a green valley. The whole
course rises and falls and finishes
at No. 18's tilted green (back to
front) which, at dusk, leaves players
gasping for breath, a camera, and
more golf.
As
our trip came to an end in Tunis,
one last course awaited us: the
Robert Trent Jones-designed Residence
Golf Course.
Long,
flat, with lots of water, you might
think you're in North America until
you observe the huge salt lake that
rides along the outside of the club.
It's a jewel of a design and runs
along the edges of 14 lakes. The
closing Par 5 is a fun finisher
out of bounds right, lake
left.
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