While Bermuda is now a thoroughly modern retreat, the island's charm – it's pink sand and turquoise seas – that drew Mark Twain's praise nearly a century ago, have remained much the same. This island paradise continues to flourish attracting 500,000 visitors a year despite its relative isolation being neither in the U.S. nor the Caribbean.

Just three hours by plane from Toronto, this British Colonial isle, is rich in world-class golf courses. The Bermuda Department of Tourism claims that it's nine courses give it more courses per square kilometre than any other country in the world!

Although Twain also said, "Golf is a good walk spoiled," golf in Bermuda has a storied history dating back to 1921 when Charles Blair Macdonald created the world-renowned Mid Ocean Club. What most people don't know is that Macdonald, who was inducted into the World Golf Hall of Fame last fall, was born in Niagara Falls, ON. He spent a lot of his time in the area even after he moved to the U.S. He wrote fondly of the area in his book, "Scotland's Gift – Golf." And this is what he had to day about Mid-Ocean, "I can assure my golfing friends, a more fascinating, more picturesque course than the Mid-Ocean will not be found in a pilgrimage around the world. There is nothing commonplace about it."

We take a taxi to the fabulous 244-room Elbow Beach resort on Bermuda's South Shore on the island's most spectacular pink sand beach. Here, we spent the next three nights relaxing and enjoying its five-star service and its seven restaurants and bars. Built in 1908, the historic landmark is breathtaking with all the amenities of a world-class resort – and the beach is as good as they come anywhere in the world!

The next morning it's a short taxi ride to a second private island gem – Tucker's Point GC. Only island residents are allowed to own automobiles, so taxis are the preferred choice of transportation, although renting a motor scooter is a memorable experience!

Nestled amid the natural contours of the island's lush hills and valleys, the former Castle Harbour course is now a stunning 6,361-yard, par-70 work of art. It rivals its next-door neighbour, Mid-Ocean, with five completely new holes, completely re-contoured greens, 17 new tee blocks and 20 additional sand bunkers. Set on 200-acres of rolling hillsides Tucker's Point Club is one of the finest resort communities in the world with a new clubhouse, hotel and million dollar homes in development.

In the afternoon there's time for a scenic taxi tour of Bermuda's east end to visit the quaint harbour town of St. George's - a designated World Heritage Site - with its picturesque streets with names like Featherbed Alley, Duke of York Street and Petticoat Lane. Here you'll find old forts, museums, churches to explore and St. George's GC, which we didn't find time to play, but stopped by the clubhouse for a pint.

The next morning we're off to Port Royal GC another true links layout, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. It rambles over ocean-side cliffs and hilly fairways, providing an unforgettable experience including its signature hole, No. 16 (near the historic, 1876 Whale Bay Battery that was part of a ring of defences protecting the Royal Navy Dockyard) which defies you to tee off over rough and ocean to an undulating green perched on a spur of land. Of note, it will be closed throughout 2008 for renovations.

If you've ever questioned why anyone would take the time to play a par-3 course, the Fairmont Southampton's 18-hole course has all the answers and more. Arguably one of the world's prettiest executive layouts, it rambles up and down Bermuda's highest point of land with gorgeous views. At 2,727 yards, this deceptive par-54 course looks awfully sweet until you realize each of the first two holes have daunting vertical drops of 200 feet to fairways and well-bunkered greens.

The final day of our trip features a morning round at the Belmont Hills GC before an afternoon flight home. Heavily bunkered, with multi-levelled greens and slender fairways, Belmont Hills provides yet another stiff test for golfers.

As I prepare to board my plane one last quote from Twain comes to mind. "You go to heaven if you want to -- I'd druther stay here." For more information contact the Bermuda Department of Tourism at 416-923-9600 or visit http://www.bermudatourism.com