NAPA VALLEY, California - From any vantage point here in the Napa Valley, the Holy Grail of wine destinations, the view is spectacular. Row after row of perfectly planted grape vines, green and lush in the summer heat, for as far as the eye can see. Sprinkled throughout are the grand estates that make up some of the most famous names in wine today — Mondavi, Beringer, Phelps, Merryvale, Opus One, Beaulieu, Chateau Montelena, Coppola and Dominus.

Napa is planted to vines in nearly every available inch of land from north to south and east to west on the hills that hug the valley. It's not surprising then, that mysteriously lacking from the landscape are the beautifully manicured golf courses that would grow so magnificently in the ideal climate here.

The reason is simple. With land planted to grapes costing more that $100,000 an acre, imagine starting a public course in Napa Valley that requires at least 150 acres? I'll let you do the math, but suffice to say it's a lot of moola, the kind of moola that makes it impractical to build golf courses no matter what you think you can charge per round.

There are but a few courses that attract a steady stream of wine lovers who need a break from the hundreds of wineries that beckon.

Most notably is the 27-hole championship Chardonnay Golf Club with three distinct nines that meander through 325 acres of Chardonnay and Merlot vineyards and feature numerous lakes, creeks, crossings and wide variety of flora and fauna. There's also the spectacular Silverado Resort featuring two 18-hole championship golf courses covering 360 acres of lush vegetation, ponds, lakes and trees that arch over the fairways. After that there are a couple of private and semi-private courses and a few beautiful nine-hole tracks but, understandably, with land at a premium and pretty much planted to vines, the choices are minimal. This is wine country; one of the most concentrated regions in the world for wine touring that attracts wine lovers the world over.

The beauty of touring in Napa is the proximity of wineries to each other. You can literally walk straight up Highway 29 and taste wines for days on end. Highway 29 is the most famous wine route in the world with the largest concentration of wineries outside of Bordeaux and Burgundy. And it only begins on Highway 29. On the opposite side of the Valley, take the north-south Silverado Trail for a similar wine adventure with equally exciting, although less known, wineries. Still haven't had enough? Take any east-west side road between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail and discover out of the way wineries that are lined up one after another.

With over 400 (and counting) wineries in Napa, a trip here cannot be done in a day. I have spent a week in the Valley, drinking and tasting wine (sacrificing food and sleep) at a steady clip, and only made it to a fraction of the wineries I wanted to visit. Thankfully, I have returned many times to discover amazing wines run by friendly tasting room staff who are only too happy to help you discover the joy of Napa Valley wine. If you love wine, there is no greater place on earth to whet your whistle. But a word of warning for first-time tasters: Always spit your wine when you taste, never drive, and pace yourself or you'll find yourself a victim of over-indulgence. There's plenty of time to relax with a good bottle of wine at the end of the day at one of the fabulous restaurants that feature local wines.

You'll find most wineries in Napa extremely consumer-friendly. Most are open to the public and have magnificent tasting rooms and extensive tours either guided or self-guided. Some charge a small fee to taste their wines while others don't charge at all for their basic wines. For the good stuff, the super-premium wines you read about in books, the wines you dream about, you'll pay a little more to taste. The extra money is well worth it as you many never get another chance.

Your wine trip to Napa should be well planned but a perfect place to start is at the south end of Highway 29 in the famous Oakville cluster of wineries. At the Oakville Crossroads and Highway 29 intersection, the famous estates of Opus One, Robert Mondavi, Niebaum-Coppola (yes, that Coppola, you know the Godfather, Apocalypse Now?), and some less famous but equally sensational wineries, Sequoia Grove, Cakebread and Turnbull are clustered together and all within stumbling distance.

Picking grapes in the Napa region.
Silverado Golf Club
Silverado Golf Club
Chardonnay Golf Club

If your journey starts here, make sure to take tours of Mondavi (one of the best all-encompassing tours in all of Napa), Coppola (great movie memorabilia, cigar room and mega-tasting room) and Opus One (which only makes one wine, but what a magnificent wine it is. Along with the view and tour it's well worth the $35).

A little more north make sure to hit up St. Supery, Grgich Hills and spend a little time at Beaulieu and sip through the high-end Cabernet Sauvignons that are world renowned.

Next on the list is Heitz Cellars and a chance to taste one of Napa's most famous wines from its most famous vineyard. Heitz Martha's Vineyard is a Cabernet Sauvignon that is bound to leave you speechless. It's said to have a little taste of eucalypt mint in every glass from the eucalyptus trees that grow on the property. Whatever you taste, once you have tried this magical wine you know you have sipped the best.

A couple of other wineries that should be experienced on Highway 29 are Merryvale and Beringer. Both have extensive wines under production with many that aren't available outside of the U.S.

Now it's time to go back down the Valley. Go east to the Silverado Trail and set your sights for Chateau Montelena.

It here at this historic chateau, with roots back to 1882, that the legendary 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was judged the world's best white wine in the spring of 1976 in a blind tasting in Paris involving comparable French wines and French wine judges. The win for a U.S. wine was a shocker and put Napa Valley on the world wine map. A movie opened this past summer called Bottle Shock that chronicles that historic wine event. You can taste the latest vintage of this legendary Chardonnay, made in the same creamy, oaky style that it was made in 1973.

Chateau Montelena is at the northern tip of the Silverado Trail so heading south make your next stop at Duckhorn, a beautifully manicured winery featuring a Victorian farmhouse tasting facility. Make sure to pay the small fee to taste through the exquisite Merlots that will include some older vintages.

Further down the Trail makes stops at Mumm Napa Valley (great sparkling wines), Caymus (spectacular Cabernet Sauvignons), Clos Du Val (wonderful Bordeaux-styled red blends and one of the most friendly tasting rooms in Napa) and the opulent, Persian-styled Darioush Winery, home to what many call California's greatest Shiraz.

You will also want to save some time to visit out-of-the-way wineries along the east-west roads that connect Highway 29 to the Silverado Trail. You won't want to miss Mario Andretti's winery (Italian inspired blends from the world's greatest race car driver), PlumpJack (a modern winery and noted for being the first to put its $100-plus flagship red wines in screwcap bottles), and several other wineries that you can simply drive up to unannounced and enjoy the hospitality.

Napa Valley is one glorious wine experience. It's bigger and more intense than you can imagine and it can be overwhelming if you don't have a plan before you go. It's suggested that you do your research before you get there, make any reservations well in advance and always pack a guide to Napa (Frommer's Portable California Wine Country guide is a good one).

NOTE: There are dozens of decent websites to help you plan your trip. This is one that I recommend: www.napavintners.com


Golf course websites:

Chardonnay Golf Club: www.chardonnaygolfclub.com

Silverado Resort: www.silveradoresort.com

 

 

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