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I
was the successful bidder for a rare Berry
Brother's bottled Port that came from the
famous Taylor Fladgate Estate, arguably
the best producer of this fortified wine
in the world. I happily forked over $225
for the bottle and counted myself lucky
to pay so little for this gem of wine that
easily fetches over $2,000 now.
That
bottle of Port slept soundly in the cellar
for 10 years while I waited for my wife's
40th birthday.
I
had a dinner planned at one of Calgary's
finest restaurants, the Ranche in Fish Creek
Park. The birthday meal was Dungeness crab
and oyster mushroom chowder, followed by
Alberta lamb, served up beside a serious
Brothers in Arms 1999 Langhorne Creek Shiraz
from Australia.
The
moment that was 40 years in the making was
about to unfold. I ordered three things
that weren't on the menu: Stilton cheese,
fresh raspberries and lightly roasted walnuts.
This would be all we needed to complement
the Port.
Our
waiter arrived with a tray of our requests
and the fully decanted 1963 Taylor Fladgate
Port. The wine left a trail of aromas leading
to our table raspberry jam, mint
julep and big alcohol nose. It was in perfect
shape with a vibrant golden hue that masked
a 40-year stint in a bottle.
We
took our first sips and our eyes lit up.
Port does not get any better than this -
and descriptors do not do it justice - but
I will forever remember the night, not so
much for the great Port, but the woman who
I enjoyed it with.
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MITCHELL
PEPPERTREE SHIRAZ 1998, Clare Valley,
Australia
It
had been wet, cold, windy and otherwise
dreary on a July winter day Down Under.
In
the driving rain I was dropped off
at the Mitchell
Winery, just another in
a long string of Aussie wineries visited
over a stretch of 10 days.
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Andrew
Mitchell thankfully suggested skipping the
winery tour and heading to his family cottage
to warm up, drink some wine and just chat
- which was music to the ears.
The
rustic yet homey Mitchell cottage, in the
western hills of the Clare Valley, is an
inviting retreat for a weary traveller.
We were met at the door by Andrew's wife
Jane. Inside there were lovely smells coming
from the kitchen. Andrew Mitchell started
hauling out bottles of his wines and we
drank heartily.
The
aromas were overwhelming and Jane, thankfully,
summoned us to the table where Andrew had
found room for another six bottles of wine.
A piping hot plate of osso
bucco was dropped in front of
us. Diving into that heavenly dish of lamb
put it all into perspective for when paired
with the first wine grabbed off the table.
It
was a Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz from the
delicious 1998 vintage, a killer shiraz
with suppleness and ripeness to go with
huge flavours of cherry, plum, blueberries
and lavish black pepper crust.
At
that moment in time, I couldn't think of
a more perfect place to be or a more perfect
bottle of wine to share with new friends
who had opened up their home to a stranger.
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SCREAMING
EAGLE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
1995,
Calgary, Alberta
It
was an evening at Calgary's Chophouse,
where NHL hockey players and visiting
celebrities dig in to juicy Alberta
beef matched to the best wine list
in the west, which I will never forget
thanks to a legendary rock star and
a non-stop parade of the world's best
wines.
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Calgarians
paid $250 each to sip Chateau Mouton Rothschild,
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23, Chateau
Margaux, Chateau Haut Brion, Beringer Cabernet
Sauvignon Napa Valley Private Reserve, Chateau
Latour and Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley.
While
that lineup of wines is a once-in-a-lifetime
experience, it was later, after a few of
us retreated to a small private room to
experience two wines that are definitely
in the Top 5 in the world Domaine
de la Romanee Conti Romanee Conti 1994 ($3,000
a bottle), the undisputed king of Pinot
Noir from Burgundy, and Screaming Eagle
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 ($3,500
but unavailable unless you are on the mailing
list), the most sought-after California
wine in the world that was a defining
moment for me.
Tasting
along side of us was Rush frontman Geddy
Lee, a wine lover and collector of fine
vino. And while the Romanee Conti was exquisite,
it was the Screaming Eagle that stills echoes
on my palate to this day with waves of pure
strawberry, currants, blue berry, cassis,
chocolate and exotic spices.
"This
wine is all about power," leader of
Canada's greatest rock band declared after
gulping down a big sip of Eagle.
A
taste of Screaming Eagle with Geddy Lee?
It just doesn't get any better than that.
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PENFOLDS
GRANGE 1998,
San Francisco, California
Penfolds
Grange is easily Australia's greatest
wine. The fruit comes from 100-year-old
Shiraz vines grown in South Australia.
If you can find yourself a bottle
it'll set you back about $350.
The
folks that make Grange spare no expense
in promoting the wine. Upon release,
wine writers are flown to a different
location each year to experience the
new vintage.
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I
can think of no greater place to sip Grange
than the wine-friendly city of San Francisco.
At a grand reception at the Hamlin School
Mansion in the tony Pacific Heights area
of the city, Penfolds poured bottle after
bottle from its impressive portfolio, working
up towards the epitome of its wine program,
the Grange.
Winemaker
at the time, John Duval, poured the Shiraz
into our glasses and the aromas came in
waves - blueberry, strawberry and blasts
of spicy vanilla. It's a dreamy, concentrated
concoction that shows blueberry compote,
plums, prunes, dark chocolate and licorice
notes that explode on the palate. The 1998
could well prove to be the best Grange ever
produced.
So,
it was off to dinner at the girls' school
mansion overlooking San Francisco Bay. A
chef was flown in from Australia to prepare
a feast that all led up to the Grange. Seared
Australian filet of beef and poached loin
of lamb paired with big reds from Penfolds.
But
it was the Grange, boldly paired with a
selection of Tasmanian cheese that will
be forever etched in my mind.
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JACOB'S
CREEK STEINGARTEN RIESLING BAROSSA
2006,
Kangaroo Island, Australia
Jacob's
Creek Steingarten Riesling Barossa
2006 is not the greatest Riesling
I have ever tasted. That distinction
goes to Zilliken Riesling 2005 Trockenbeerenauslese
#2 ($550 for a half bottle, if you
could buy it) - the most extraordinary
sweet wine I have ever tasted with
candied pears, apricot extract, bracing
acidity and pure, heavenly flavours.
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But
you add a day of fishing on Emu Bay, just
off the coast of Australia's Kangaroo Island,
some barbecued fresh-caught King George
Whiting, a deserted pure white sand beach
and a couple bottles of Steingarten Riesling,
and a good bottle of wine becomes a memorable
wine with a back story that will live forever.
Wine
is like that. Good on its own, but even
better when paired with a special person,
place or meal.
Enjoy!
rickwine@hotmail.com
10/09
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